This blog is about things to help you with your pool and pool products.
|Posted by Brad Morris on January 19, 2019 at 12:05 PM|
Costs of Inground Swimming Pools: A Couple Things to Consider
There are two things to consider when researching the cost of inground pools:
• The initial purchase price of the pool
• The lifetime cost of ownership associated with the pool
First, let's take a look at the initial cost of concrete, vinyl liner, and fiberglass pools to get an idea of how much to budget for each.
Keep in mind that these prices will vary greatly from region to region.
Then, we'll look at the long-term cost associated with owning each type of pool.
Fiberglass, Concrete, and Vinyl Liner Cost Comparison
Fiberglass Pools: Initial Cost
There are four distinct types of fiberglass pool packages:
• Assisted installation (dig, set, fill)
• Basic installation
• Turn-key installation
Let's take a look at each to learn more.
Fiberglass Pool Self-Installations
A self-installation package would include the pool shell and delivery of the pool to the home. The customer takes it from there.
The obvious advantage of installing your own fiberglass pool is what you'd save from reducing the swimming pool installation cost. On average, most people will save between $6,000 and $10,000 depending on the scope of the project and who does the majority of the work.
The price of the pool shell is determined by two things: the size of the pool and the cost to deliver the pool to your home.
If you are considering a self-installation, ask if the quoted price includes delivery.
If it does not, get a delivery quote in writing.
Fiberglass pools are basically classified into three size groups:
• small—roughly 27 ft. long and under
• medium—28–34 ft. long
• large—35 ft. long and up
In most cases, you can expect a small fiberglass pool shell without delivery to cost $9k–$13k, medium $12k–$16k, and large $16k–$24k.
Delivery fees could be anywhere from $600 to $2,500.
Resources are available to teach homeowners how to install their own pool shell, but the vast majority of pool owners prefer to leave the installation of the pool to authorized dealers.
Assisted Installation (Dig, Set, Fill)
An assisted installation differs from a self-installation in that it includes:
• The pump and filter system
• Labor to set and level the pool shell, do all the plumbing, and partially backfill the pool
These are the most critical (and unfamiliar) phases of the installation.
The customer provides all other labor, materials, and equipment.
This is a great option for those who can excavate their own hole and handle the patio work, but would rather not deal with the headache of leveling the pool, setting the pump and filter, and doing all the plumbing.
Assisted installations typically cost around $30,000–$52,000.
Standard Fiberglass Pool Packages
A standard fiberglass pool package typically includes the following:
• The pool shell
• Delivery of the pool shell to the site
• The pump and filter system
• Gravel for backfill
• Water to fill the pool
• Maintenance and cleaning equipment
• Building permit
• Some concrete around the pool
Standard packages can vary greatly from company to company, so ask specifically what it includes.
It's surprising how often a company's base package price doesn't include permits, water, delivery fees, etc.
It's also important to consider other details like warranties, the type of pool equipment provided, and the fiberglass pool manufacturer.
To save money, many homeowners choose to handle the balance of the project themselves, including the completion of the patio, electrical work, and the pool fence.
On average, most folks can save several thousands of dollars doing this.
As a general rule, to find the average price of a fiberglass pool package of this type, take the length of the pool and add $10,000 dollars.
For example, a 30-ft. fiberglass pool package might cost $40,000.
Most people will spend another $5,000–$15,000 in pool accessories, electrical work, patio, and fencing.
Turn-Key Fiberglass Pool Packages
The overwhelming advantage of a turn-key installation is convenience.
The fiberglass pool company handles all of the above, plus these details:
• Hiring contractors
• Getting bids
• Scheduling and overseeing their work
The customer doesn't need to oversee or manage any aspect of the project.
Many customers find it worth the investment to let someone else handle everything—not to mention the added peace of mind knowing that there is only one company responsible for the project.
On average, turn-key fiberglass pool projects cost $45,000–$85,000.
Projects that require extensive retaining walls, water features, or other elaborate elements can cost much more.
Concrete/Gunite Pools: Initial Cost
Just to be clear, a gunite pool is a concrete pool. Gunite is simply a way of applying the concrete that makes up the pool shell.
When it comes to the initial price of a concrete pool vs. a fiberglass pool, the primary difference is that there is no DIY option for concrete pools (for most people, anyway).
Often people are surprised to learn that the fiberglass pool and concrete pool prices aren't all that different.
Turn-key gunite pool projects typically cost between $50,000 and $100,000.
The disparity in price between concrete and fiberglass isn't in the initial swimming pool cost, but the cost of owning the pool over time, which we'll discuss in more detail in a minute.
Vinyl Liner Pools: Initial Cost
Despite losing significant market share over the past 5 years, vinyl liner pools are still extremely popular in certain regions of the United States.
This is undoubtedly due to their low initial cost, which is by far their most appealing attribute.
For the DIY-er, vinyl liner kits are available for purchase online...and for cheap!
Someone building their own vinyl liner pool can probably do so for under $20,000.
Base vinyl liner packages from most pool builders typically cost $25,000–$45,000.
Turn-key vinyl liner packages will typically cost $35,000–$65,000.
|Posted by Brad Morris on December 5, 2018 at 12:35 PM|
Saltwater vs. Chlorine Pools
So, you are finally the happy owner of a beautiful swimming pool. You have just finished the maintenance or you’ve just built it up and you have just one more step to do. And what is it? Of course, fill it with water, so you and your family can enjoy the summer and still stay cool. But what type of water do you fill it with?
No matter what type of pool you had installed, you need to fill it with safe and sanitary water. The two basic water types you have to choose from are saltwater and chlorine water. Both options deter bacteria and other contaminants, but each type has its own advantages and drawbacks as well.
Right now, chlorine pools represent the most popular option. Most public pools and home pools use this type of water.
Chlorine pools don’t cost as much to install. While you do need to buy chlorine powder or tablets and other chemicals to control the amount of chlorine in your pool, these items don’t usually cost as much as a salt generator.
Another positive is that chlorine and other chemicals work especially well at keeping your pool water safe from harmful bacteria. This kind of pool also allows you to clean up messes quickly. If a child has an accident in the water, you can add a chlorine packet to solve the problem.
While the chlorine in the pool keeps your water clean, it can hurt swimmers. Many people suffer from red, irritated eyes after swimming, and their skin can dry out. Chlorine may also cause shortness of breath and inflame swimmers’ lungs.
Another disadvantage is that chlorine pools are hard to maintain. You have to clean the pool and replace the water more frequently because of the number of chemicals. The chlorine also causes problems outside the pool. Because you have to manually add chlorine, you need to be careful while you handle and store the packets.
Contrary to what some people may think, saltwater pools actually do have chlorine in them, though not as much as chlorine pools. A generator ionizes salt in the water to produce a continuous supply of chlorine
Because the continuous supply of chlorine eliminates algae growth, you only need to clean your pool about once or twice a year. The lack of heavy chemicals also makes it so you don’t need to replace the water as often.
Fewer heavy chemicals lead to fewer side effects. Your eyes and lungs are less likely to become irritated. The water feels softer and doesn’t dry you out, which makes this option especially good for sensitive skin.
Another benefit of saltwater pools is that they save you time because you don’t have to manually add chlorine. And because you don’t need chlorine packets, you don’t need to worry about safely storing and transporting chemicals to keep your pool clean.
On the other hand, saltwater can damage your pool. Too little salt (and thus chlorine) can make your salt generator and other pool equipment shut down, while too much salt can lead to corrosion. The salt can ruin the lighting, liners and other parts of the pool.
Additionally, the salt generator’s initial installation may cost a lot, and any repairs require help from professionals. The generator also needs to run all the time, which can take a toll on your electric bill. And you will need to replace the salt cells every few years-and this task can cost quite a bit as well.
No matter what type of pool water you have, you need to frequently test the pH readings to make sure the chlorine stays at a safe level.
|Posted by Brad Morris on February 1, 2017 at 9:00 AM|
this is a cool pool calculator and virtual pool builder from Hayward check it out.
|Posted by Brad Morris on May 17, 2016 at 8:20 AM|
Swimming pool replastering
Plaster pools are the most common type of inground pools in the USA. There comes a point when the plaster starts to get old and pitted. This is due to age and the years of chemicals eating away the finish. Many times plaster degradation is due to improper water balance. Some problems with a plaster finish can be caused by the mix or the application of the plaster. In any case, plaster is a natural product, and is meant to degrade. Hard enough to be durable, but soft enough to remove a thin top layer by acid washing.
So, when do you need to re-plaster? Many folks re-plaster the pool during renovation, about every 20 years or so. Some do it more often to keep a nicer finish, or to change colors. Don't let your pool guy tell you that you must replaster or your pool will fail. Bare spots and cracks are a concern and should be fixed. But the usual decision force is from an aesthetic viewpoint. Sooner or later, your plaster will be dull, stained and not too pretty. When you get tired of it - you'll know it's time to replaster.
There are many types of plaster finishes on the market these days. Now you have many choices in color and the look of the finish. Most are marble or quartz based but there are a few now that have pea gravel or a synthetic additive.
pool plaster colors
White plaster is still the most common color. Blacks and Greys are losing favor, but were very popular 10 years ago. No matter what color finish you choose the prep and the application are about the same. I will cover the prep instructions below.
Draining the pool:
You must drain the pool to apply plaster. In this day in age you might want to check with your county or state on the laws about discharging pool water in to a sewer or stream. It is best to remove all the chlorine before doing so. There is a product called “Chem Out“ that will do this for you. Think before you put chlorine into a stream it will kill the algae, causing a ripple effect on the whole eco system.
Also important whenever draining a pool is opening the hydrostatic relief valves. These are commonly spaced throughout the floor of the pool, in both shallow and deep end. These white caps are plastered over and need to be chipped out and exposed, before they can be unscrewed and removed. Excess table water beneath the pool, or water that you are pumping out of the pool, can put so much pressure (hydrostatic pressure), under the pool shell that it can actually lift the pool out of the ground! Pop! As a pool is draining, the hydrostatic plugs are removed - very important - to allow the excess water beneath the pool to flow into the pool.
Cut and chip:
This is the prep part of the job. If you have a tile band around the top of the pool you will have to get a diamond blade grinder. You will want to do a ¾ inch cut right under the bottom of the tile band. Next you need an air chisel (a hammer and a masonry chisel will work but will make you tired fast). Start an inch and a half below your cut and chip at an upward angle. Professionals will set up scaffolding in the deep end to keep proper position.
The goal is to remove a chip under the tile, that space where the chip is if how the plaster goes up to the tile without creating a budge. It will leave a nice smooth transition from the plaster to the tile. Next you will want to chip around the return and drain fittings in the pool, and also any underwater light niches. Be sure to follow proper safety measures. Wear gloves and goggles and a facemask. Make sure pool is drained fully in case you drop your tools in the water. This is rather dangerous work, so be sure to hire a qualified contractor.
Acid washing the pool.
This is not your regular acid rinse of 60/40 (60% water 40% acid) - this is where you pour straight muriatic acid over the whole pool , from the tile down the walls, and all of the floor - and let it sit there for several minutes to etch the old plaster. This will eat off the old plaster and rough it up so the new plaster has something to adhere to and grab hold of. This is a hazardous job and you need a respirator, gloves and eye protection. You will also need to neutralize the acid before you can dispose of it. To read more on acid washing pools
Plastering the pool:
No matter what type of plaster you use they are mixed in a similar manner. At the street or in the driveway, there will be a large concrete pump truck "Plaster Rig" that mixes the white portland cement and marble dust and pumps it to the pool. At the pool the plasterers begin to shoot the mix on the pool walls and floor. They walk around with special stilts / peg shoes so they only leave 4 little holes that can be troweled out before they are done. The process is a lot like icing a cake. They use a long trowel stroke to smooth out the finish.
plaster sprayingpool sprayed, ready for fast trowelsplaster troweling
The entire plastering job takes 2-4 hours. It must be done fast, because we want to get the fresh plaster underwater within the shortest amount of time. Best time to plaster would be early cool mornings, or late afternoons. The hose is set on the main drain cover to fill the pool, wrapped with a sock to diffuse the water. The fill must not stop until full, or a water mark can occur. If not full soon enough, +/- 24 hours, depending on daily temperatures, stress cracks will be noticable on steps and upper wall sections, from the plaster drying out to fast.
Plastering is both an art and science that I would not recommend doing yourself. To find a qualified company, I would recommend a member of this trade organization http://www.npconline.org/
Plaster pool finishes cure under water over the first year after it is plastered. The pH will tend to rise rapidly, and you will need to have a lot of pH reducer chemical to keep your pH level in the 7.2-7.4 range. During the first month, it is important to test the water daily and give the pool a hard brushing every day too. The pool will immediately begin to produce plaster dust, and daily brushing twice per day is recommended to remove these scaling materials to the filter, where they can be backwashed out. This plaster dust can choke streams and cause other damage to plants and wildlife, so please dispose of properly. Maintain and adjust Calcium Hardness and Total Alkalinity levels within the first few days of starting up the pump/filter. Begin chlorinating slowly.
An "Acid Start" is a procedure that eliminates the plaster dust, and hence much of the brushing. It must be done very carefully however to be effective. The idea is to drop the Total Alkalinity level to zero, and then rebuild it with the carbonates that are contained in the plaster dust.
Here's how I do an Acid Start-up. As the pool is filling, immediately after plastering, add 1 gallon of muriatic acid directly to the water (don't splash it on the bare plaster) per 5,000 gallons of fill water. Wait to add the first gallon after the bowl is nearly full. With a watch, time the amount of time it takes to fill up a 1 gallon or 5 gallon bucket with the hose(s) used to fill up the pool. Do the math to determine how many gallons are added every hour. Divide 5,000 by the number of gallons coming out of your hose(s) per hour, and you will know how long it takes to fill 5,000 gallons from the hoses.
When the pool is full, test the Total Alkalinity. It should be zero. Then test the pH, and do a base demand test to determine how much pH increaser to add. Add up to 6 lbs of pH increaser at a time, brushing the pool to distribute fully. Wait several hours in between 6 lb additions. When all of the pH increaser is added, recheck pH and Total Alkalinity. Add additional increasers if needed and keep brushing.
Use the water test here to help you and it is recommended that you adjust the chemicals to the Langelier saturation index here http://www.csgnetwork.com/langeliersicalc.html
|Posted by Brad Morris on October 22, 2015 at 9:05 AM|
. Why You Should Use Plaster? A. PLASTER IS A TIME TESTED PRODUCT: Plaster has been used as a swimming pool surface coating for the past 50 years. This experience has shown that plaster is a durable surface that can stand up to the environment of proper pool water chemistry. There is no other pool surface on the market with this time tested history. PLASTER IS ECONOMICAL: Plaster is the most economical pool surface. Its initial cost is well below more expensive options. In addition, the average plaster surface can easily last 15 to 25 years, which makes Plaster one of the most economical components of a swimming pool. That's value for your investment. REPAIRABLE AND FORGIVING: Taking care of your pool takes time and attention. As time goes on and mistakes are made, a pool surface can become stained, discolored, and/or damaged. Stains on a plastered pool can be chemically removed or sanded off. A plaster surface can tolerated several of these procedures in its lifetime. PLASTER IS LONG LASTING: The secret to long life of any pool surface is properly maintained water balance. Improper water balance will destroy any pool surface and in many cases, void the warranty of that surface. A plaster surface, in a properly maintained pool, can last 15 to 25 years. PLASTER IS NON-TOXIC AND ECOLOGICALLY SOUND: There is a lot of concern today about toxic products. Pool plaster is made from some of Mother Nature's finest materials. Plaster, being a cement product, is part of the largest segment of the construction industry. The backbone of construction and the world, is cement. PLASTER IS AVAILABLE IN A VARIETY OF COLORS: Pool Plaster is available world-wide. You need not worry that your pool surface will become obsolete. Plaster can be done in a wide variety of colors to create any appearance desired. The color is not just surface coating but continuous through the entire material. In addition, options are available for different finish techniques including Diamond Britetm and exposed aggregate, that allow for great variety in obtaining a desired pool appearance. Q. How long does it take to receive a quote from Arturo’s Pool Plastering, Inc. for pool or spa resurfacing? A. Generally, we are able meet with you to discuss your pool restoration within 1 day after you contact us. We will provide a written quote within 24 hours after meeting with you. Q. How long after we accept your quote will the project begin? A. This will depend on the time of the year, but as a rule we are able to begin most restorations approximately 2 ~ 4 days after you make a commitment. Q. Is there a certain time of the year that is best for pool remodeling? A. Your swimming pool may be resurfaced at any time of the year. However, it is sometimes easier for us to schedule your project during the winter months. Q. Approximately how long will it take to resurface our pool? A. Pool projects that require just tile and plaster (or a stone aggregate surface) can be completed in 3 ~ 4 days. Pool projects that require more extensive work, with the coordination of additional contractors (deck resurfacing for example) will take more time. Q. My old plaster looks terrible. Would I be able to paint or acid wash my pool to make it look better instead of incurring the expense of a resurfacing? A. Painting the inner surface of a swimming pool is, at best, a short-term solution to improve the appearance of a pool. Arturo’s is frequently asked to remodel pools that were painted only a short time previously. Additional charges are often necessary when resurfacing painted pools due to the difficulty in removing multiple layers of paint. Older pools that are acid washed will initially appear bright, but often become very rough to the touch due to the increased porosity in the plaster caused by the acid. Q. How long will it take to remodel my pool? A. The length of time a pool will be under construction for renovation is directly related to the extent of the work we are performing. Pools that are being refinished with plaster or Diamond Brite can be operational in three days or less. Pools that require tile and coping or are being extensively remodeled require additional construction time. Be assured that when a project commences Arturo’s will make every effort to consistently move the job along and complete your project in a timely manner. Q. May I remodel my pool during the winter? A. Remodeling a swimming pool during the winter has a number of advantages. Obviously, pools are generally not used in the winter and your family will not be without the use of the pool during the swim season. Since the pool renovation business is somewhat cyclical, it is also easier to obtain desired scheduling when we are not in the busy season. Q. Why is Diamond Brite more expensive than plaster? A. DIAMOND BRITE (Exposed Aggregate Finish) are blends of selected quartz aggregates and fortified white Portland cement ideal for new or re-finished swimming pools. Available in a variety of colors and textures, Diamond Brite finishes are factory blended to provide the pool owner with an extremely durable and attractive alternative to traditional pool coatings. Q. Can Arturo’s handle my entire pool renovation project? A. Arturo’s has the capability to manage, both by the utilization of its employees and by the selective use of other contractors, just about every facet of the pool renovation process. We specialize in specific aspects of pool construction and when other areas of expertise are needed we rely on relationships built up over the last ten years to supply the necessary services. Arturo’s goal is to establish efficient integration of these services to provide you with a swift and professional pool remodel experience. Q. What else should I consider doing to the pool at the same time as it is being resurfaced? Upgrade finish such as Diamond Brite: It is far more durable than plaster and aesthetically pleasing. Tile and coping: The time to replace tile and coping is before a new pool finish has been applied. Cantilever decks: You can give your pool a new look by cutting back the cantilever deck and installing rock or brick coping around the edge of the pool. New decks: Consider replacing your decks in conjunction with your pool renovation. If decks and the pool are being remodeled together, this gives us the opportunity to set your new pool coping and tile absolutely level since we are not inheriting existing decks that may or may not be level. Plumbing and electrical under the decks: If decks are being replaced, this would be the time to consider replacement of plumbing and electrical runs. Copper plumbing and galvanized electric runs should be replaced with non-metallic pipe. Skimmer: Whether or not decks are being replaced, your skimmer should be evaluated for possible replacement. Certain skimmer designs are problematic. Floor cleaning system: Floor systems are sometimes of little value in terms of cleaning the pool. We are able to cover over the cleaning heads and install a “sweep” type pool cleaner that is often more effective. Pool light: A pool light that looks fine in the old pool sometimes no longer looks that good against the new pool finish. We offer upgrade lights with color variation capability. We can also assist in verifying that your light circuitry meets current electric codes. For example, many older installations do not have GFI shock protection. Fittings: Unless otherwise directed we will replace only “standard” type fittings. “Screw-in” type fittings are replaced only when specified on the contract. Wallsteps: Plastic wallsteps are often in poor condition and should be replaced prior to the pool being refinished. Pool/spa suction: Inlet suction in your pool/spa can be especially hazardous to children. It is important to review how water is returned to the equipment pad and consider “split-suction” in some cases. Trim tile: Trim tile is eliminated when a pool is refinished. If you wish to replace trim tile on your steps and benches, it must be specified on the contract. Equipment: If decks are being replaced and the electric run travels under the deck area, this may be the time to consider future power requirements at the equipment pad. Adding a pool sweep booster pump, for example, may require power in excess of the power service to the pad. Our intention in listing the above is to provide you with a checklist of items that are sometimes overlooked when a pool renovation is contemplated. Your Arturo’s staff will be happy to discuss further with you any pool upgrades you may be considering. THE CONSTRUCTION PROCESS Q. Our project has started, but crews do not always arrive first thing in the morning and some days they do not come to the job site at all. Is this normal? A. Our crews are trained to perform specific pool remodel functions and it is therefore not unusual for a crew to be scheduled on more than one job per day. Depending on where your pool is relative to the schedule, it is quite normal to see people arrive at mid-day or even in the late afternoon. Generally, off days are planned to allow material to fully cure before the next phase of construction or to provide schedule spacing in the event more time is needed. Q. Are there any phases of construction, which are particularly messy? A. While our crews make every attempt to minimize the impact upon the area surrounding your pool, a remodel site can be dusty. We therefore recommend that pool furniture and potted plants be moved away from the pool area while construction is in progress. It is also suggested that windows be kept shut near the pool for the duration of the pool remodel. Q. Our pool was just prepared for resurfacing. Why is the surface very uneven with large holes and streaks? A. It is important that our crew remove all of the old delaminating plaster prior to resurfacing. A rough surface is expected in most pools since not all areas are delaminating. Once the new plaster or Diamond Brite has been installed you are not able to see the previously cratered areas. Q. Should we use the local water supply to refill our newly remodeled pool? A. The only alternative to your local water supply is the purchase of water by truck. Water fill by truck is generally cost-prohibitive and as a result most people utilize either water supplied by their local water district or by a well on site. Special precautions should be taken when using well water or water that is soft. We strongly urge you to consult with your pool service professional or contact our office in this situation. POST CONSTRUCTION POOL CARE Q. The crew put a hose into the pool and started filling it with water—now what? A. Filling the swimming pool When the application of plaster or Diamond Brite has been completed, the crew will begin filling the pool with water. Note that the application of Diamond Brite is a two-day process. The average pool takes 24 to 36 hours to fill. Until the pool is completely filled with water it is vulnerable and extra care should be taken as detailed below. It is important that your swimming pool be filled with water as soon as possible. Do not turn the water off for any reason until the pool is full. If you have a spa, it should be filled with water after the pool has been filled completely. If the water is shut off prematurely, you may have a “bath tub ring” around your pool. Monitor your pool as it is filling so that you can predict at about what time the water should be turned off. It may be necessary to set your alarm. Watch it closely! Use the pool fill line only after the initial water fill process is complete. Additional hoses may be added once the water depth is three to four feet, but be sure water from the additional hoses does not run across the pool surface. Hoses should be placed into the pool in such a way that they do not touch the pool surface. The outlet of the hose should discharge into the pool of water above the main drain. The water surface will typically be maintained at the mid-tile level. The water level for a Diamond Brite pool without tile should be maintained in the middle of the skimmer throat. Do not walk or allow pets inside the pool. Make sure that gardeners, landscapers, and other maintenance people stay away from the pool area until it is full. Fertilizer and other yard debris in the pool can be very damaging and must be avoided. If mastic is installed, make sure that pets and people do not touch this flexible joint between the coping and deck for 48 hours. Mastic is very sticky until cured and is difficult to remove from places where it does not belong. There will be sand residue remaining after installation, which can be broomed or hosed off after the 48-hour curing period. Pool start-up Once your pool is full of water, it will require extra attention. A pool start-up includes brushing, filtration, and chemical balancing. If you are not comfortable with these procedures, we suggest that you consult with a pool service professional. The following are additional guidelines to be followed during the start-up period: As plaster cures, especially during the first 30 days, it is important to remove plaster dust in a timely manner by brushing and to stabilize water chemistry in the pool. Since chemicals can have a significant impact upon the life of your plaster it is suggested that only persons trained in this area introduce chemicals to the pool. A Diamond Brite pool is generally easier to achieve a balance in water chemistry than a pool that has been replastered. A replastered pool must be brushed at least twice per day until there is no longer visible plaster dust churned up by the brushing. Inadequate brushing may result in the plaster dust becoming permanently affixed to the surface of the pool. Pebble Tec/Sheen pools require limited brushing. Start the pool equipment once the pool has been filled. Run the filter 18 hours per day for at least a week subsequent to plaster. Make sure that there is main drain suction to filter the dust from suspension in the water. Monitor filter pressure as the filter may need cleaning during this period due to the accumulation of plaster dust. The filter can be set for normal operation with a Diamond Brite pool. Do not swim in the pool until there is no longer evidence of plaster dust in the water and chemicals have been balanced. Do not use the pool sweep cleaner for at least ten days subsequent to the application of plaster or Diamond Brite. Do not turn on the heater for at least ten days and longer if the pool is not in chemical balance. On-going maintenance Once your newly remodeled pool has been chemically balanced and all plaster dust has been filtered out, you will want to establish a routine maintenance schedule to thoroughly enjoy your pool and protect your investment. Since Arturo’s does not provide pool maintenance services, once the pool remodel is complete and the pool has started to be filled with water, you can either maintain the pool yourself or contract with a pool service professional. It is very important that the pool chemicals be closely monitored to maintain the proper chlorine, acid, and pH levels. Your heater, solar water heating system, cleaner, and filtering system should also be checked and maintained throughout the year. Q. HOW DO I TAKE CARE OF A PLASTER POOL? A. The water chemistry should be maintained according to the "Saturation Index." The saturation index measures the various factors in the pool water, such as pH, alkalinity, hardness, etc. and adjusts them according to a specific formula depending on the levels of each factor. There is not a standard level at which each factor is always kept. Based upon the results of the computerized testing, recommendations will be made as to what needs to be added to, or deleted from your pool water. If your pool builder does not provide this service, this type of balancing can be done at a local pool store that offers computerized water testing. CLEANING THE "RING" AROUND THE POOL. If you have a pool or spa without waterline tile and need advice on removing the "ring" around the waterline of the Pebble Tec, the following instructions are basic guidelines. This ring is commonly referred to as a "calcium ring" or "mineral buildup." Usually any type of cleaner designed to clean calcium off of waterline tile . When using these cleaners/chemicals follow the directions on the container. It is a good idea to spot test a small area first. Lower the water level to expose the waterline and apply the cleaner to an area of about 8-10". Next, scrub the area with a nylon brush and start rinsing with a hose while scrubbing. The cleaners can be rinsed into the pool, but remember to use caution while working with these chemicals as they may contain acids. Repeat as necessary. Always follow the instructions on the container. Do not attempt to use Muriatic acid on the waterline ring as it will not work to remove this type of buildup. Our Projects Contact Us Have a question that is not addressed here? It's easy to get in touch with us. Click here to contact us via e-mail. We look forward to hearing from you.
|Posted by Brad Morris on June 29, 2015 at 11:50 AM|
ABOVE GROUND POOLS
Above ground pools are a great alternative to an inground pool. Most people would opt to install an inground if they could, but sometimes the cost of an inground pool is prohibitive. Though an above ground pool is cheaper than an inground, it doesn’t mean that an above ground pool has to be “cheap”. Installed properly we find that most people get years of enjoyment out of their above ground pool.Having been in the pool business for years and installing hundreds of above ground pools, we know that questions abound about above grounds. Below are some of the most commonly asked questions we typically receive concerning above ground pools.
SHAPES AND SIZES
Round shape above ground pools are the most common. Round pools typically install more quickly than an oval. Round pools also have less structural parts than an oval pool.
The sizes for a round pool are: 18’, 21’, 24’, and 27’. There are larger sizes available in a round pool but we discourage anything larger than a 27’ due to chemical use and maintenance concerns.
Oval pools are longer than they are wide. They take longer to install and they have more structural parts. The straight side of an oval pool requires a heavier duty upright than does the radius end of the pool. The uprights along the straight side of the pool will protrude farther than the uprights on the radius ends of the pool. An oval pool also has metal straps that run under the sand bottom to connect both side of the pool.
Available Oval Sizes: 15’x30’ and 18’x33’
The depth of the pool is determined by the wall height. A typical wall height is 52”, but can also be purchased in 54” wall heights.
MY YARD IS NOT VERY FLAT, CAN I STILL GET A POOL?
Yes, you can get a pool even if your yard is not perfectly flat, though it will probably cost more money to install. The way we determine how far out of level a yard is, is to first paint an outline of where the pool will go. The outline will include the width of the pool as well as an 18” over dig. The over dig allows us to work around the pool during installation. Once the outline is painted we take a laser and shoot the highest and lowest points on the painted outline. For example: let’s say you’re buying a 24’ round pool. Once the outline of the pool is painted we use our laser to determine that your pool site is 30” out of level. That means from the highest point of the outline to the lowest point of the outline there is a 30” difference.
HOW MUCH EXTRA WILL IT COST IF MY YARD IS NOT FLAT?
The extra cost for an over dig (our term for where the pool will be installed) is determined by the inch.In our install price we have 12” of over dig included already. That means that if we use our laser to shoot the highest and lowest points and there is a 12” difference or less, there will be no extra charge for the over dig. This does not mean that we will sink you pool in the ground 12” inches. We include this 12” because typically most yards will not be more than 12” out of level and the customer will not be charged extra for an over dig.
For example: let’s say you buy a round 24’ pool. We paint the outline and use our laser to shoot the highest and lowest points and the difference is 24”. Your pool site is 24” out of level. Since 12” of over dig is included in the install price you take 24” (how out of level the pool site is) - 12” (included in the install price) = 12”. In this scenario the customer will be responsible for an additional 12” of over dig cost. The cost that we charge is $25 per inch. So $25x12” comes to an additional $300 dollars over the original install charge.
WILL MY YARD BE MESSED UP FROM THE INSTALLATION?
Yes your yard will be messed up installing your new pool. We try to keep the damage to your lawn to a minimum, but installing a pool is quite a large construction process.
WILL I HAVE TO DO ANY WORK AFTER THE POOL IS INSTALLED?
Yes. When the pool is installed and the pool crew has left, the work begins for the customer. When the crew leaves the pool will be completely constructed with a couple of inches of water in the bottom to set the liner. The pool will have to be filled with water, electric will have to be run to the pump, and the pool will have to be back filled with dirt. Depending on the size of your over dig this can range from filling in the over dig, to simply piling dirt around the bottom rail of the pool. The backfill process cannot start until the pool is full of water. Any repair to the lawn, etc. will be the responsibility of the homeowner.
DO I NEED A PERMIT FOR AN ABOVE GROUND POOL?
You may. It is important to check with the municipalities in your area to see what permits are required for an above ground pool. Every municipality is different, so you will want to check.
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO INSTALL?
There are many factors that can affect the install time for a pool. Some of them are:
• Access to pool building site
• How far the yard is out of level
• Size of the pool
• Is the pool round or oval?
In an ideal situation most times a round pool can be built in three to four hours, an oval pool can be built in about six to seven hours.
ARE ABOVE GROUND POOLS HARD TO KEEP CLEAN?
We have found that keeping an above ground clean and ready for swimming can be obtained with minimal effort. Remember that there is no pool that will be completely maintenance free; some effort will be required on a weekly basis. Keeping the chemicals balanced and running the filter system 24/7 will go a long way to easing the work required to keep a pool clean. We also suggest installing a main drain in the above grounds that we sell.
A main drain is a drain that is hooked up to the pump so that water is pulled from the bottom of the pool as well as the skimmer. A main drain also tends to pull in any small dirt particles, thereby reducing the need to vacuum the pool. We have found that most of our customers may check their chemical levels a couple times of week and adjust accordingly. They also shock the pool once a week if needed, and let the automatic cleaner run during the night/evening. They spend a great deal more time swimming than they do cleaning!
HOW LONG DOES AN ABOVE GROUND POOL LAST?
The vinyl liners in above ground pools are not designed to last forever. We find that most customers on average can get about eight years of use out of a liner. This is an average, so some customers get less, while some customers get quite a few more years of use. Over time chemicals and sunlight will tend to fade the design on the liner. Some people will choose to get a new liner simply to refresh the way their pool looks, even though their liner is functionally sound.
Aside from the liner the rest of the components of an above ground pool will last for many years. Properly maintained we have seen the structural parts of some pools that have lasted twenty years or more.
52" wall. The two models can be purchased in a round or an oval shape.
HOW MUCH DOES AN ABOVE GROUND POOL COST?
Pool pricing depends on the shape, size of the pool and the model of pool chosen. While exact pool quotes may vary here are some ball park prices:
The entry level 18' model will start at $4,275.27
rounding out at approximately $7,160.00 (includes installation up to 12" overdig)
*any required permits are not included in this price.
WHAT IS INCLUDED WHEN I BUY A POOL KIT FROM MORRIS POOLS?
Included in our pool kits are:
• Pool wall
• J bead liner
• A frame ladder *can upgrade to steps for $75-$155
• Hayward Skimmer
• Vacuum pole, vacuum hose and vacuum cleaner head
• Wall brush
• Leaf net
• Winter cover
• Starting chemicals
• Digital test strip reader
*Our pool kits do not include permits, the price of water to fill the pool, electrical work or any costs of an over dig in excess of 12”.
*The one option that we highly suggest is the "Main Drain". The additonal cost of the main drain including installation is $445.00.
WHAT KIND OF LINER COMES WITH AN ABOVE GROUND?
We stock one liner pattern that is included with an install:
This liner installs over the top of the pool wall and is secured by coping strips along the top of the wall. Typically after installed you can see some portion of the liner along the top of the outside of the pool. Overlap liners tend to be less expensive than the other types of liners.
J Bead or J hook liner
This liner has a bead along the top of the liner that hooks over the top of the pool wall. No coping strips are needed. The top rail of the pool secures the liner to the wall. With a J bead liner no portion of the liner can be seen outside of the pool wall. It makes for a very clean looking pool install. J bead liners are very popular and constitute the majority of the liners that we install. When buying a pool from us a J bead liner is included automatically in the pool price.
Beaded liners have a bead along the top of the liner that slips into a bead receiver. The bead receiver is installed over the top of the pool wall, and then the liner bead is inserted into the bead receiver. As with J Bead liners, no part of the liner can be seen on the outside of the pool after installation. The bead receiver can be seen along the top of the inside of the pool wall, though only a couple of inches are visible.
|Posted by Brad Morris on April 1, 2015 at 11:35 AM|
This Pool season it is always important to open and clean your pool correctly. We can help you do that at Morris Pool Service. We also want to remind you of safe pool practices that help you and your family safer when using your pool.
Never let children around or near the pool unattended.
Have all your family take swimming lessons and get CPR certified.
Make sure your gate around your pool is locked when you are away.
Don't use your pool when you are ill or have open wounds.
Wear your sunscreen.
Be sure that everyone using your pool know what rules and regulations you have for your pool and it's use.
We here at Morris Pool want you to have a Happy and SAFE summer by your pool!!
Call today to schedule your opening and cleaning!
|Posted by Brad Morris on March 11, 2015 at 11:10 AM|
Did you wonder this year what it will take to open your pool? First did you have it covered over the winter? Did you have it cleaned before it was winterized or did you cover with lots of leaves in it? Is your pool an inground pool and starting to have alot of staining issues on the ganite? These are some very important questions that we can assit you with,. If you had your pool cleaned and covered during your winterization you probably are just going to need a regular cleaning when you open it, This is done with a commercial pump and vaccumed out then chemicals are added to open it. If you just purchached the home and there was no cover on the pool and there is alot of debris and mystery things in the pool this may take an extremem clean. This means lots of labor to clean and get the debris out then we need to vaccume and add extra chemicals to get the pool back to a crystal clear state. The inground ganite pool that needs to have the stains removed may require to have an acid wash cleaning. This is a little more time consuming and labor intensive procedure but will have amazing results for you. This can make that old dirty stained pool come back to add many more glorious years to it's life.
So what kind of cleaning will your pool need??
Give us a call to schedule your cleaning and opening today! Morris Pool Service 816-807-1570
|Posted by Brad Morris on March 5, 2015 at 12:35 PM|
It is time to start thinking about getting that pool opened for the upcoming summer.
If you purchased a new home and are a new pool owner and are unsure if your pool was correctly winterized, it is best to have a pool diagnosis done to ensure you have no broken line issues. Having a pool diagnosis done can give you details of what you will need to do and what you will need to replace. You have a variety of things to look at such as your pool pump, sand filter and liner. If any of these need to be replaced it is good to know this so you can schedule the work to be done at the time you are having your pool opened. This can save you time, money and aggrivation. Go to our product page to order your pool diagnostic today!
Keep your summer headache free by scheduling your pool diagnosis early and then get your opening on the schedule to have a worry free and fun in the sun summer.
|Posted by Brad Morris on January 13, 2015 at 2:10 PM|
Winterizing your swimming pool can be a long process. It may be easy to skip steps or assume that certain aspects of the procedure are less necessary than others. Just as important as doing everything the way it should be done is making sure that you use the correct equipment.
Many swimming pool owners will try and cut corners (and avoid a few extra steps) by using cinder blocks, bricks, boards, or coffee cans filled with pebbles (seriously) to hold down their winter pool covers. While these may be the right weight to keep covers from blowing off in any impending windstorms, they can also be hazardous. If anyone were to fall into the pool, it would bring those heavy objects in from the edges of the pool, causing harm to the person falling in or puncturing the pool liner. If you’re using pool water bags, if someone fell in the pool when it is covered, the water bags won’t sink and will give them a greater chance of making it out.
Using Water Bags
Inappropriate objects that people use to hold down their covers usually have sharp corners that create tears in pool covers over the course of a season. Your best option for keeping your cover on and not causing undue damage in the process is to purchasing swimming pool water bags. Not only do they work well
by keeping your cover in place, but they aren’t hard on the cover itself, and are by far the safest option you have as a pool owner.
|Posted by Brad Morris on February 2, 2014 at 3:35 PM|
A small swimming pool is a great idea if we have limited space but still desire to have a beautiful exterior and outdoor space. Indeed, there are many small swimming pool ideas which can provide smart shape to save more space in the house. But of course we need to consider the idea that even if its small in size but still it is attractive, unique and offer a more relaxing space in the house. As we all know, that small swimming pool provides a lot of fun and enjoyment for the entire family that is why today we are going to share to you the small swimming pool ideas that you may apply in your house.
Well, the great things on installing a small swimming pool in the house is to be able to customize the backyard or exterior that we have. Then we may also recommend using the irregular shape of pools because it may depend on the shape of your yard. Aside from that it is also an advantage for the homeowner for it is economical to operate. At the same, the small sized pools has the ability to be heated more effectively. Also it is easier to clean and maintain.
|Posted by Brad Morris on January 11, 2014 at 9:40 AM|
Morris-Pool hopes everyone had a wonderful and safe New Year’s Eve. We know everyone makes New Year’s Resolutions, so we made a list of some of the most common New Year’s resolutions we’ve heard! Let’s see if yours made the list.
01) Stop Smoking
02) Lose Weight
03) Exercise More
04) Stop Drinking Soft Drinks
05) Stop Drinking Alcohol
06) Get Out of Debt By Sticking To A Budget
07) Spend More Time With Family and Friends
08) Save Money
09) Help Others by Volunteering
10) Eat Healthier
11) Change Jobs
12) Continue Education
13) Decisions on Relationships
14) De-Clutter Your House
15) Become More Organized
16) Sleep More
17) Relax More
18) Take A Trip
19) Read More Books, Instead of Watching TV
20) Spend Less Time On The Internet
Was your resolution or goal on the list? If not we would like to hear from you on what was yours.
|Posted by Brad Morris on January 6, 2014 at 10:05 AM|
Swimming Pool Design
Use this checklist to help determine the best design for your swimming pool
Morris Pool in Action,
Swimming pools are big, not only in terms of the size of investment you're making. Their size will take up a major portion of space in your backyard as well. It's important to make sure you've thought about everything you want and don't want in a swimming pool. Once the plans are in place, it's even more expensive to start changing your mind. So use this checklist to start contemplating and figuring out the type of swimming pool design you want. Knowing these things will help your pool design overall and will leave you with a stunning backyard feature.
Talk to people that already have a pool. You can get a lot of insight from someone who has been through the swimming pool installation process. Whether it's someone you know, a friend, a colleague, or someone in your neighborhood, most people will be happy to share about their experience. A few key things you may want to ask:
• What do you like and not like about your pool?
• What would you change about it?
• How long did the actual process take to build it?
• Were there any unforeseen costs that you didn't expect?
Start a folder with photos of pool designs you like. Let's say you hired an interior designer for a project in your home. One of the first things this person will ask you is to see pictures of room designs that you like. Why do they want to see these pictures? Because it gives them a better insight into what room colors, schemes, furniture, and design themes you seem to be drawn to. You should create this file of ideas for your swimming pool. Photocopy, clip, or in some other way save any photos of swimming pools that catch your eye. Once you have collected a dozen or so, you should be able to compare them and see a common theme in the type of swimming pool that you're attracted to. Most certainly, you will be able to pick out parts of each photo that illustrate features that you like and would want included in your pool.
Make a wish list. From your file of saved ideas, create one page to write down every feature, design, look or other element of a pool that you wish yours could have. The sky is the limit! Don't worry about costs at this point. It's much like beginning with the end in mind. Ask yourself, "How do I wish my pool would look when it's finished?" Then work backwards...you can begin identifying items that are too far out of your budget. Then you can identify items that just won't work (perhaps because the space for your pool is too small, or you don't have a view to capitalize on, etc.). Once you have this wish list whittled down, you can show it to your pool builder and or landscape architect and have a solid basis for building a pool that will match your dreams and your budget.
Do a hose layout. To get a feel for how much space your swimming pool will take up, you can use this simple method for determining layout. Gather up your longest gardening hoses. Drag and place the hoses on the ground in the area where your pool will be. Use the hoses to create a layout of how your pool will look. This is a great way to create a realistic visual of the placement of your pool, what shapes and designs seem to work best, etc. It's an easy and cost effective way to layout multiple designs to determine which layout you like most. (You can also use marking spray paint or lime to mark the layout of your pool.)
|Posted by Brad Morris on January 3, 2014 at 8:35 AM|
Swimming Pool Secret #8: All Those Algicides: Which is Best?
If you go into any pool store you'll find half a dozen or more different algaecides -- one for every problem, right?
In my opinion, there are only four GOOD pool algaecides:
1.chlorine and some chlorine compounds,
2.bromine and some bromine compounds
4.copper in various forms
So called 'linear quats' are the most widely sold swimming pool algaecides, and can be effective, but disappear quickly and tend to foam. In chlorinated or brominated pools, they also consume your sanitizer.
Virtually every packaged algaecide on the market contains one of these products, or a mixture of them.
You can also buy products of questionable valuable containing zinc or silver. You can even buy 'miraculous' pool magnets. But these latter products are more likely to cause mortal injury your wallet than your algae.
Oh! I should also mention: virtually all of the 'ionizers' simply add copper to the water. I have not seen any evidence that adding copper electrically is better than adding it chemically.
So what's best?
For quick kills of free floating, chlorine delivers -- unless you have stabilizer levels, above 60 or 70 ppm. Even then, if you add enough chlorine -- 10 ppm or more -- it will usually work just fine.
In this case, the chlorine compound, monochloramine, produced by using an ammonia source will work very quickly. Using either Yellow-Out (tm Coral Seas) or Mustard Master (tm Biolab) according to the label will produce effective levels. Aqua-ammonia, or ammonium sulfate will also do the trick -- but don't try it unless you understand the stoichiometry of the reactions involved. Using ammonia and chlorine together is tricky, and can be really dangerous! Even then, you don't want to use ammonia based treatments unless you have to do so: the monochloramine is much more irritating than the form chlorine ordinarily takes in a pool, and it will take several days of high added chlorine to convert the monochlorine back to more normal types.
United Chemical and others sell products containing sodium bromide which result in a free (unstabilized) bromine residual. And while bromine is probably not as good an algicide as lightly stabilized chlorine, it is a much better algicide than heavily stabilized chlorine! I've gotten very mixed feedback on these products; some people tend to swear by them, but others swear at them.
Unfortunately, using either ammonia or bromide containing products produce some pool 'gotchas' that can linger after the algae's gone. In particular, repetitive use of products containing ammonia can cause problems. For this reason, we recommend using them only if needed, and not routinely.
Poly quat -- poly[oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene(dimethyliminio) ethylene dichloride] -- is sold under multiple names. But if it says 'poly . . . ', it's polyquat. Unlike other algicides, it's nearly side effect free, even at very high doses. However, many people do become frustrated with its major unwanted effect: regular use tends to result in 'wallet-ectomies' (it's expensive!). And it's really better at preventing algae, than killing it. If you typically develop mustard algae in August, using low doses of polyquat beginning in late July may prevent the problem.
Copper can be added to your pool in a variety of ways, ranging from 'ionizers' to algicides to so-called 'chlorine-free' pool sanitizers. No matter how you add it, levels effective at killing algae are also effective at staining pools and blond hair. We use it -- but only on pools with rough looking plaster and exclusively dark-haired swimmers.
What's left? Quatenary ammonias! They're cheap, foamy, and might kill some algae. These are typically sold as highly diluted 'economy' algicides in gallon jugs, in blends with copper, and in a more concentrated form, for use in pools treated with PHMB (Baquacil, Softswim or PolyClear), since other algaecides are not compatible with PHMB based sanitizers.
So . . . what should you do?
The easiest thing is simply to avoid algae in the first place.
Want some algae preventing tips? Here are three:
■Brush regularly (weekly?), especially walls and deep end, to prevent invisible algae colonies from getting their start.
■Test your pool's sanitizer levels regularly and never, NEVER let sanitizer levels (chlorine, Baquacil, whatever) get low.
■Make sure your filter is working properly, and that your pump runs at least 6 hours per day, preferably divided into two different intervals
|Posted by Brad Morris on April 29, 2013 at 10:50 AM|
Hot Tub Cleaning-
Before Draining, put a Spa Purge agent into your hot tub to clean out bacteria from the plumbing lines. Or call us at Morris Pools Company and let one of our skilled professionals do it for you! 816-807-1570
2. Drain your hot tub:
Remember to turn off the power to your hot tub first! Follow your hot tub hand book guide on how to drain your hot tub. Or call the professionals Morris Pool Company.
3. Clean & Sanitize the surface of your spa:
A soft rag or a nylon scrubber should easily remove most dirt on your hot tub shell. Pay special attention to the water lines where sticky build-up can occur. We recommend cleaning the inside of your hot tub with a solution that does not create suds and is not abrasive. For hard-to-clean stains, try a surface cleaner like one made by Brilliance for spas. After cleaning, rinse the hot tub thoroughly to get rid of any cleaning solution residue.
4. Clean your hot tub Pillows:
Carefully remove the pillows (if your spas has them) and use a mild soap and water solution to remove body oils that have built up be sure and rinse them off with clean water!
5. Clean & Protect Your Cover:
Remove your hot tub cover from the spa and spray the cover with a hose to loosen any dirt & debris.
• Use a very mild soap solution (try one teaspoon dishwashing liquid with two gallons of 3. water), or baking soda along with a large sponge or soft bristle brush & scrub the top of the vinyl in a circular motion.
• Do not let the vinyl dry with a soap film on it before it can be rinsed clean.
• Scrub the cover’s perimeter and side flaps. Rinse clean with water.
• Rinse off the underside of the cover with water only (use no soap), and wipe it clean with a dry rag.
• To condition & protect your cover, try a vinyl protectant.
• Take note of any rips & tears in the vinyl of your cover as these issues can cause loss of heat to your hot tub. When it is time to replace your cover give us a call at Morris Pool Company 816-807-1570
6. Clean the exterior cabinet:
Wipe down your cabinet, spraying it with a mild cleanser made from soap & water to remove any stains & residue. There are spray on products available to renew the finish if you want to keep it looking like new.
7. Clean your Filters:
Depending on the type of Hot Tub you have, your filter requires different care & cleaning. Refer to your owner’s manual for proper care. Call a professional to do this for you from Morris Pool Company!
|Posted by Brad Morris on March 27, 2013 at 10:15 PM|
HOT Tips for a “ COOL “POOL!!
1. Pool Maintenance equals - Circulation, Filtration, Cleaning, Testing and
Chemistry – that equal a stellar pool season.
2.Stay Healthy – Try a 20 minute workout in the pool everyday to decrease the risk of disease!
3.Landscape- A bit of backyard greenery can be both pretty and functional.
4.Help with mildew- . If mildew spots appear on outside chairs and tables, wash the fabric according to manufacturer directions and dry in the sun.Then mix together equal parts lemon juice and salt; spread on thestain. Dry in the sun again and rinse thoroughly.
5.Organize- simple storage rules for keeping backyard clutter to a minimum: air out wet things by storing them in big mesh bags or open-weave crates; toss all the little bits –sunscreen, dive toys – into a clear plastic shoe organizer hung on the fence.
6.Save- In order to be more environmentally friendly, make sure to always keep pool chemicals properly balanced. We find that overworked filters and motors waste energy and hike utility bills.
7. Ambience - Place flameless LED candles around the edge of the spa. Taketunes into the spa with a floating speaker that connects wirelessly to an MP3player. Add a soothing scent to the water with single-use aromatherapy packs.
Hopefully this all will add to your most memorable year of happy moments by the pool!!
Give Morris Pool Service a call for all your needs! 816-807-1570
|Posted by Brad Morris on March 25, 2013 at 4:20 PM|
Cover that thing I I’m cold!!
Did you know that by covering your pool you can save on heating costs?
1. Water that is uncovered evaporates. This can cause heat loss and water loss from your pool! (Evaporating water requires tremendous amounts of energy. It only takes 1 Btu (British thermal unit) to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree, but each pound of 80ºF water that evaporates takes a whopping 1,048 Btu of heat out of the pool.)
Did you know that by covering your pool you can save on Chlorine and Chemicals?
2. By covering your pool you will not lose as much of your chemicals either thus saving you on chemicals and chlorine!
Did you know you can save on your cleaning time and costs with a pool cover??
3. Covering you pool you will also cut down on the cleaning time it takes and the cost of cleaning. It stands to reason that if you have a uncovered pool that leaves, dirt, twigs, frogs etc. elements of Mother Nature will find a way to your pool. Then with the breakdown of the elements in your pool create the “nasty” stuff that needs to be cleaned every year. But you can reduce this by adding a pool cover.
If you do not have a pool cover why not consider buying one today? Give Morris Pool Service a call today! 816-807-1570
|Posted by Brad Morris on March 15, 2013 at 1:20 AM|
LEAKING- “Drip, Drip Drip!”
When it comes to liners we recommend and sell VyNall liners for their superb quality and true mil thickness!
At some point of your pools life you will need to repair or replace a liner.
1. When you need to replace your liner give Morris Pool Service a call! We will use the best quality liners from VyNall! Even though they may cost more they are much higher quality and thicker than liners you can buy from auctions on the internet. They also usually come with a warrantee and anything bought over the internet is usually “As Is” “you get what you pay for and no guarantee and no warrantee”!
2. If you choose to buy your liner elsewhere and have us install it, we can do that! Keep in mind, however, we cannot guarantee or warrantee someone else’s liners. After we install a liner that we did not sell you and some issue arises, we can always help you, but like with anything we would have to charge accordingly as would any service that cannot guarantee others products or services.
3. If you are losing water and cannot find the leak yourself, give Morris Pool Service a call! We can not only find the leak but in most cases can repair or patch it so that you can stretch the life of your liner out.